Reinvention and renewed energy: London Fashion Week enters a new era

London Fashion Week has entered a new era under the leadership of the British Fashion Council’s new CEO, Laura Weir, who declared in her opening speech on Friday that “fashion matters.”

Weir emphasized her vision to transform London into “a sensational showcase of creative fashion design talent” by lowering barriers to entry and welcoming “new energy, new thinking, and new ideas.” This year’s edition reflects that shift, featuring a wider range of new and returning brands, as well as international editors and buyers who are set to spotlight the UK capital’s role on the global fashion stage.

Backstage, designers expressed cautious optimism, noting that London may finally be receiving the recognition it deserves. In fact, earlier this week, members of Parliament debated London Fashion Week’s national importance — the first time the event has been addressed at government level. “We know as an industry that there is often a lapse of respect for fashion and the contribution it brings to the UK,” Weir said. “The world is watching this week. Let us show them what only London can do.”

Big Names and Breakout Moments

Blockbuster shows punctuated the schedule, from Burberry’s star-studded runway at Kensington Palace Gardens attended by Elton John, Olivia Dean, and Vanessa Williams, to H&M’s celebrity-filled opener, which featured Romeo Beckham on the catwalk and a live performance by “Messy” singer Lola Young.

Smaller designers, however, provided equally noteworthy highlights. Milestone anniversaries were celebrated by Roksanda, Harris Reed, Ashish, and Fashion East (the incubator that launched Jonathan Anderson’s career). Newcomers, including Oscar Ouyang, Maximilian Raynor, and Johanna Parv, showcased fresh approaches that underscored London’s reputation as a hub of innovation.

“It really feels like there’s a renewed sense of energy in London right now,” said designer Daniel Fletcher, who runs his own label while also designing for the Chinese brand Mithridate.

Britain on the Runway

Several designers used the runway to reflect on British identity. Patrick McDowell, staging his first show since winning the Queen Elizabeth II Award for Design in May, paid tribute to his home county with a collection titled “Lancashire Rose.” It featured jacquard-fabric blazers and trench coats reimagined into strapless tops and voluminous skirts.

Fletcher, meanwhile, merged two archetypes — country folk and town dwellers — in playful clashes: sequined party dresses layered over Oxford shirts, and tall riding boots paired with glittering underwear. “It’s a clash that shouldn’t really work, but somehow does,” Fletcher told CNN backstage.

American Inspirations

Not all designers stayed rooted in Britain. Some looked across the Atlantic for inspiration. Yuhan Wang channeled the surreal energy of David Lynch’s film “Mulholland Drive” (2001), incorporating references such as the movie’s fictional diner into her designs.

Meanwhile, cult label Chopova Lowena staged a cheerleading-inspired spectacle with tinsel hair extensions, rhinestone eyeliner, varsity-style letterman jackets, and knitted hoodies. Models strutted to AC/DC’s “Thunderstruck,” a song closely tied to the Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders. “It was a lot of healing high school trauma,” co-founder Emma Chopova explained, saying the show reimagined their teenage experiences.

Reinventing Streetwear

Streetwear, long a staple of UK style, was redefined by a wave of designers offering bold reinterpretations. Yaku Stapleton of YAKU introduced hoodies, camouflage pants, and capes inspired by role-playing games, complete with cargo trousers designed to hold fabric versions of axes and sword sheaths.

Lueder drew from her childhood summers spent in medieval role-playing camps, creating knit hoods and 3D-printed horned clogs. HARRI, famous for inflatable pieces, launched his first ready-to-wear collection in latex — bomber jackets, mesh shirts, and Bermuda shorts designed for daily wear, albeit with a few aerated items nodding to his theatrical past.

Johanna Parv focused on versatility, designing garments for “the woman who is living in the city right now” — particularly cyclists. Her nylon dresses, skirts, and jackets can easily adapt for commuting, working, or partying.